Things to Do in Suriname in May

May's high water levels are the key. The swollen Coppename and Suriname Rivers allow boats to navigate deeper into mangrove creeks and flooded forests, dramatically increasing your chances of spotting the rare pink river dolphins. The sound of their breath breaking the surface after a rain shower is memorable. The overcast skies also mean less glare on the water, making it easier to see them play.

The rainforest here is never quiet. But in May it's a roaring, dripping amphitheater. Waterfalls like the Ireneval are at their most powerful, and the trails are lined with fungi and orchids that seem to glow against the wet, dark earth. The constant cloud cover keeps the understory temperature bearable, though the air is thick enough to drink. You'll hear the rain coming long before it hits the canopy.

This is the month to appreciate Suriname's capital indoors and out. The frequent rain showers provide the perfect excuse to duck into the cool, dark-wood interior of the 18th-century St. Peter and Paul Cathedral or linger over a coffee in one of the high-ceilinged cafes on the Waterkant. When the sun breaks through, the steam rises from the brick streets, and the city's unique blend of Dutch colonial and Caribbean architecture shines.

The vast wetlands of Bigi Pan are at their most biologically productive in May. Migratory birds have mostly departed. But resident species like the scarlet ibis, roseate spoonbill, and countless herons are exceptionally active and visible against the grey sky. The flooded savannah creates a mirror-like surface, good for photography. The boat ride out there, with the smell of salt and mangrove in the air, is an experience in itself.