Things to Do in Suriname in March

The park's trails, like the one to the impressive Ireneval or Leoval waterfalls, are at their best in March. The water flow is strong from recent rains, creating thunderous cascades and cool, misty pools good for a dip. The forest canopy is dense and damp, alive with the constant hum of cicadas and the scent of wet earth and decaying leaves. You're far more likely to see troops of capuchin monkeys and the spectacular Guianan cock-of-the-rock than you would in a drier month.

The former coffee and cocoa plantations along the Commewijne River, like Peperpot and Mariënburg, are lush and green. The river itself is high enough for smooth sailing, and the breeze off the water cuts the midday heat. These tours give you a tangible sense of Suriname's layered history. You'll see the crumbling brick chimney stacks of sugar mills slowly being reclaimed by jungle vines, the orderly rows of old cocoa trees, and the quiet villages where descendants of contract laborers still live.

March's weather pattern (clear mornings, rainy late afternoons) is practically designed for exploring Paramaribo on foot in the AM. Start early when the light slants well across the whitewashed towers of the Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral, the largest wooden structure in the Western Hemisphere. The smell of freshly baked broodjes (rolls) mixes with the scent of flowering frangipani trees. By the time the heat and humidity become oppressive, you can duck into the covered Central Market, a sensory overload of smoked fish, colorful piles of produce, and the chatter of Sranan Tongo.

This vast wetland reserve in the northwest, near Nickerie, is a world away from the jungle. In March, water levels are good for the flat-bottomed boats to glide silently through the mangroves. The soundscape is all about the rustle of reeds, the splash of fish, and the memorable chorus of birdlife. You'll see scarlet ibis returning to roost at sunset and hear the squawk of herons. The air carries the salty, muddy, slightly sulfurous smell of the coastal flats.

The late afternoon light in March, after a rain shower has cleared the air, can be spectacular. These short boat trips leave from the Waterkant in Paramaribo just as the city's wooden facades turn gold. You'll cruise towards the river's mouth, where the freshwater meets the Atlantic's brackish influence. This is prime time to spot the shy, pink-hued tucuxi dolphins surfacing. The breeze is cool. The smell of the river, a mix of freshwater and distant salt, is invigorating.